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Nya jobb med tekniskt mode
Med en växande marknad för svenskt mode växer också antal jobbtillfällen. I fjol anställde branschen 56 303 personer, vilket innebär en ökning med 3,8 procent från året innan – och det innebär också att modebranschen nu är lika stor som den gamla svenska paradgrenen trä- och pappersindustrin.
Framför allt är det butiksjobben som ökar men enligt Elin Frendberg, vd på Moderådet, växer också en mängd andra, helt nya yrkeskategorier fram kring modet.
- Jobben som kreatörer, designers, är väl inte så många. Men det blir fler jobb inom logistik, produktion, affärsssystem och inte minst innovation, hela apparaten kring mode. En av de coolaste rollerna vi ser behov av i branschen framöver är att vara modestatistiker, säger Elin Frendberg.
En av modebranschens drivkrafter är, av naturliga skäl, att ligga ett steg före - vilket har börjat ge intressanta synergieffekter med den snabba tekniska utvecklingen. I dag är också det allra trendigaste i modevärlden de nya materialen, menar Elin Frendberg. Textilier gjorda av träfibrer, kokosfibrer, mjölkproteiner.
- Så stor träindustri som vi har i Sverige skulle vi kunna ta en viktig producentroll igen, som för 40 år sedan!
I den gamla tekostaden Borås utvecklar Smart Textiles, en del av Borås högskola, textila innovationer som tyger som renar vatten, mäter EKG eller blir svala i extrem hetta. I fjol lyckades ett svenskt initiativ ta fram textil av 100 procent återvunnen bomull, vilket är något av en världssensation. Bomullsfibrer har annars ansetts för korta för att kunna återvinnas.
På 60- och 70-talen var tekoindustrin stor i Sverige, som då var ett produktionsland. Sedan outsourcades allt mer av produktionen längre och längre bort, för att de senaste tio-tjugo åren nästan helt ha hamnat i Sydostasien.
- Men nu börjar Kina bli ett konsumtionsland. Och det pågår ett maktskifte mellan Kina och USA. Efter finanskrisen har USA, lite protektionistiskt, gjort det till en kvalitetsmärkning med etiketten ”Made in USA”. Branschen förändras.
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No guaranteed wages in Northvolt's US reconstruction
Northvolt's financial troubles continue. Now, the battery manufacturer's hopes rest on a reconstruction in the USA. However, the process means that the state guaranteed wages – lönegaranti – will not apply to Union members.
The clock is ticking for the struggling battery manufacturer Northvolt. During the autumn, debts have piled up with the Swedish Enforcement Authority, and recently several of the company's major shareholders withdrew from negotiations for new financing. Since its inception in 2015, Northvolt has raised SEK 110 billion, but now the money is almost gone. According to CEO Peter Carlsson, they need to raise just over SEK 10 billion in the coming year, but so far the search for new financing has been fruitless.
Maintaining control with Chapter 11
Therefore, Northvolt has now taken the next step to save the company. The management has applied for a so-called Chapter 11 procedure, a type of reconstruction process in the USA that was recently used by the airline SAS. One possible explanation for the battery manufacturer turning to an American court is that it is considered doubtful that Northvolt would be granted a Swedish reconstruction, as it requires the company to be fundamentally viable. Another advantage of Chapter 11 is that the management is likely to retain control over the company.
No guaranteed wages for employees
However, there is a downside – for the employees. In an American process, Northvolt's employees will not be able to benefit from the Swedish state guaranteed wages - lönegaranti - according to several legal experts contacted by Kollega.
– The Swedish state does not pay any guaranteed wages if the company has not initiated a reconstruction or bankruptcy in Sweden. If Northvolt only initiates a Chapter 11 procedure in the USA, all the company's obligations to employees in Sweden to pay wages and other compensation according to the employment contract remain, says Hans Andersson, chairman of the Swedish Association of Restructuring and Bankruptcy Administrators.
If Union members at Northvolt do not receive their wages, the union can, however, request the company to be declared bankrupt in a Swedish court.
– If Northvolt does not pay wages on time, the employee or the union can collect the wages through the Enforcement Authority and ultimately request that the company be declared bankrupt if the wages are not settled, explains Hans Andersson.
Unionen: "Will collect unpaid wages"
Filip Vujcic, a union lawyer at Unionen, also assesses that members cannot benefit from the state guaranteed wages when a corporate reconstruction is initiated in the USA.
– This means that Unionen, in the event of future unpaid wages, needs to safeguard its members' rights through wage collection. According to Swedish bankruptcy rules, a corporate reconstruction in the USA does not prevent a member's bankruptcy application from being examined in a Swedish court, he says.
Will Unionen request Northvolt to be declared bankrupt if members do not receive their wages?
– Unionen does not comment on that question at this time.
*In wage collection, Unionen usually sends a demand letter to the employer, who has seven days to pay the wages. If the wages are still not paid, the employer receives a payment order via service. If that does not help either, Unionen sends a bankruptcy application to the district court.
This text has been translated with the help of AI.
CHAPTER 11
- American reconstruction process aimed at giving a company a chance to continue with all or parts of its operations. Normally, no administrator is appointed, and the debtor continues to run the business themselves.
- The company must present a plan that must be approved by the court. The plan aims to determine which debts the debtor should pay and which debts should be written off. The plan also provides the opportunity to terminate unfavorable contracts and reorganize the business so that it can continue to operate profitably.
- One advantage of turning to a court in the USA instead of using the Swedish reconstruction process is that a Chapter 11 has an impact in several countries. If a group has companies in different countries, they are all drawn under the same process instead of carrying it out in each country and risking different outcomes.
